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Storm & Salvage

Storm Damage: Can Fallen Trees Still Be Sold?

It always happens the same way. A derecho rolls through Franklin County overnight, or a February ice storm coats everything in an inch of rime, and in the morning there are three or four big trees on the ground in your yard. Your first call is to the insurance adjuster. Your second call is to an arborist for removal. And somewhere around the fourth or fifth phone call, someone asks, “Hey, is any of this wood worth something?”

The honest answer is: often, yes — but less than the same tree standing up, and only if you act within a few weeks. This guide walks you through when fallen trees still have real timber value, when they don’t, and what to do in the first 72 hours after a storm to preserve whatever value is there.

The 72-hour rule

The clock starts as soon as a tree is on the ground. Every day that passes, the log loses value for three reasons: staining (sapwood discolors), insect damage (ambrosia beetles move in fast, especially in warm weather), and checking (the ends of the log start to split as they dry). For walnut in July, you might see measurable degrade in less than a week. For white oak in January, you probably have a month of grace.

The single best thing you can do after a storm is make one phone call before you call the arborist — either to us or to another timber buyer — so the removal crew knows which trees to salvage for logs and which to send to the chipper. Once the chainsaw operator bucks a high-value log into firewood lengths, the value is gone forever. We’ve seen $1,200 walnut butts turned into $40 of firewood because no one made that call.

The 72-hour rule in one sentence: Don’t let the cleanup crew start cutting until someone who understands log grades has looked at the tree.

What still has value after a storm

When a tree fails in a storm, it usually fails in one of three ways, and the failure mode tells you almost everything about what’s salvageable.

Windthrow (root ball tipped over)

Best case for salvage. The trunk is intact, just lying on its side. If the root ball comes up cleanly, the butt log is often still the most valuable section of the tree — exactly what a saw mill wants. Windthrow walnuts and white oaks after a Franklin County thunderstorm are among the easiest salvage jobs we handle.

Trunk snap (broken at chest height or higher)

Depends on where it broke. If the trunk snapped 20 feet up, you probably still have a usable 16′ butt log. If it snapped at 6 feet, the butt log is short but the lower section is often still sound. The wild card is how badly the wood fibers tore at the break — a clean shear is salvageable, but a twisted rope-pull break can introduce defects several feet down into the log.

Crown failure (top blew out)

Usually great for salvage. The trunk and butt log are completely untouched; you just lost the upper branches. For our purposes the tree might as well still be standing. Pure upside — especially if an arborist was already going to have to come remove the widowmakers.

Lightning strike

Mixed. A lightning scar that runs down one side of the trunk usually downgrades the log from clear saw to pulp, because mills can’t tell how deep the fiber damage goes. But sometimes a strike only takes out the bark and cambium, leaving the wood beneath intact. Worth checking, never worth assuming.

Disease or rot failure

Usually not salvageable. If your tree came down because it was already hollow at the base or rotted from Armillaria, the wood is mostly gone and the log yards don’t want it. The exception is a hollow shell with a clean sapwood ring thick enough for 1′′ boards — rare, but it happens with old white oaks.

What insurance usually gets wrong

Homeowners insurance in Pennsylvania almost always covers removal of a fallen tree that damages a structure, and sometimes covers removal of trees blocking driveways. What it almost never accounts for is the timber value of the wood itself. Adjusters are trained to settle removal costs, not to think about log markets.

This leads to a common and avoidable outcome: the adjuster authorizes a removal company, the removal company treats the logs as waste to be disposed of, and the landowner loses the timber value without ever knowing it was on the table. We’ve seen this happen more than once with mature Franklin County walnuts.

The fix is simple: tell your adjuster that the logs have salvage value and that you want to handle disposal separately. You keep the insurance payout for removal; we handle the logs; you get paid twice for the same tree.

Watch out for: Removal contracts that include “and we keep the wood” boilerplate. That clause can quietly transfer ownership of a $2,000 log to a tree service for $0. Cross it out, initial it, and move on — or call us first.

What we do on a storm-damage call

Storm jobs are time-sensitive, so our process is a little different than a normal standing-timber assessment:

  1. Same-day triage. Call or text us photos of the downed trees. We tell you within an hour whether any of the trunks look salvageable and whether it’s worth pausing the cleanup crew.
  2. On-site within 48 hours for anything that looks like real timber value. We identify species, measure the usable log lengths, and check for the three big defects (staining, splits, broken fiber).
  3. Coordination with your arborist or cleanup crew. We tell them where to buck the log, how long to leave it, and where to stage it for a log truck. This usually costs you nothing extra — they were going to cut the tree anyway; we just control where the cuts happen.
  4. Fast mill pickup. For salvage logs, we skip the multi-mill bidding process (there’s no time) and go straight to the mill that pays best for that species and is closest. We tell you which mill and what the price is before you commit.
  5. Payment. Same terms as any other job — you’re paid before the logs leave your property. 10% flat fee. If it scales out higher than we quoted, you get the upside.

When it’s not worth the call

Some honesty: not every fallen tree is worth salvaging, and we’ll tell you that on the first phone call rather than wasting your time. Skip us and just let the cleanup crew do their thing if:

  • The species is low-value (red maple, silver maple, boxelder, most softwoods, most pines in our region).
  • The trunk diameter is under ~16′′ at the base. Below that, mill economics don’t work even for walnut.
  • The tree was hollow, rotted, or visibly diseased before it came down.
  • The useful trunk length (first clear section before branches) is less than 8 feet.
  • Access is completely blocked and a log truck can’t get within 100 yards of the log.

If any of those apply, the cost of log trucking and arborist coordination will swallow the timber value, and the right answer is just to dispose of the wood and move on. We’d rather say that honestly than waste a week of your time.

If a storm just came through, here’s what to do in the next hour

  1. Stay safe. Fallen trees often have hung-up limbs, stretched fibers, and widowmakers. Don’t climb on them. Don’t let kids near them. If a tree is on your house, on power lines, or hanging over a driveway, call the appropriate emergency service first.
  2. Take photos. Three angles per tree: the base/root ball, the trunk from a safe distance, and the break point if you can see it.
  3. Pause the arborist. If you’ve already called a tree service, tell them you want them to assess but not to start cutting until you’ve made one more call.
  4. Call or text us. (717) 369-8482. We respond to storm calls within an hour during daylight. Even if the answer is “not worth it,” we’ll tell you that fast and you can keep moving.

Just had a storm roll through?

Text us photos of the downed trees — we respond within an hour during daylight. No obligation, no pressure, and if there’s no value there we’ll tell you immediately.

Text (717) 369-8482